Carnival in Cologne

Image courtesy of Florian Seiffert (F*) on flickr.

Hello Dear Reader,

I have to apologise profoundly for having a 16 day hole in your favourite (ha!) blog, but unfortunately since my latest move to beautiful South-East Essex (Euphemisms anyone?) my new ISP hasn’t managed to hook me up to the net yet. Blogging from work, while theoretically possible, is a bit of a no-no due to a lack of actual time to get my thoughts on wordpress, so this reaches you from the Intercontinental in Cologne. One of my favourite Hotels in the world, this Interconti has always managed to combine a seemingly effortless attention to my needs with a simple, understated  elegance and a dash of luxury. Compare that with the lacklustre presentation of the Interconti in Wellington. My personal highlight in the Interconti franchise is nevertheless the Sydney branch as the view from their rooftop bar is unmatched in the world.

Aaaanyway, enough about hotel reviews: while I was sitting pretty in my room, working away, around me the world literally took a left turn. I don’t know how many of you have ever experienced those 5 weird days between ‘Old wife’s thursday’ and ‘rose monday‘. It’s not easy to describe, but the easiest way would be: All shops and companies  are close apart from doner stands, public transport, cabs and bars. All social inhibitors are removed, as are the moral ones. Snogging and even shagging outside one’s emotional, social and class boundaries is positively encouraged, dancing and singing along excruciatingly bad music is obligatory and if you don’t wear at least a whiff of a silly costume you’re a societal outcast.

While this sound all pretty incoherent and positively orgiastic, the citizens of Cologne pretty much carry the burden with panache and style: there are few of the drunken and violent outbursts that are so characteristic of a weekend in England and the spirit is one of good-natured debauchery.

There are – of course – downsides. I don’t think I’ve had my bottom that often fondly fondled by variou  members of the public not beknown to me within two hours of standing in a bog-standard bar. Not that I particular mind having my bottom fondled, but I prefer the best girlfriend ever for that role and not a neverending collection of ladies (and gentlemen) in various stages of drunkenness.

This shows you the downside of carnival: If you’re not ready to embrace tipsyness, kissing strangers and costumes (and did I mention the music?), the whole shebang can be excruciating.

Or maybe I am just getting old.

Beautiful Stepney

The East End of London has a pretty bad rep. Not quite without reason, but what people often don’t realise that how pretty the area is away from the grimy main streets full of fast food joints and mini cab offices.

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An abandoned pub, the Katherine Wheel has been converted into some flats. Shame. Looked like a nice boozer.

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St. Dunstan on a bright winter’s morning. Indeed, that too is the East End, just 300 meters from one of the major arterial roads. A quiet and friendly space that invites having a seat and contemplating about the change this amazing urban space has been going through over the last millenium.

Snow paralyses Britain

Image courtesy of pineapplebun on flickr

Even though I have been living in this country for over 10 years, it still amazes me that a little bit of rain/snow/hail/kittens/leaves can severely disrupt the infrastructure. Today there has been what, 10 cm snow, and there are no buses in London, the tube is mostly shut down and all train companies have disrupted or no services.

What happened to British Engineering and why do the French/Germans/Dutch manage to keep going when its snowing?

Oh well. Me Johnny Foreigner traipsed for 45 mins through London this morning to make it to my place of work. Sod the tube.

Tomorrow I might take my skis.

Smithfield Cafe

After freezing my bottom solid during a conference near Smithfields I needed some proper grub to warm my icy buns. And between all the posh pubs and fancy lunch places I found what I was looking for:

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Smithfield Cafe is a tiny, comfy, obviously long established cafe that seems to be open 24 hours and seems to be doing very well. While I was having my dinner, a never ending stream of motorcycle couriers picked up coffee, buns, rolls, chips and what not, all knowingly welcomed by the friendly owner and his capable assistant. A friendly lot, those couriers.

How was the food? Have a look for yourself:

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Now that’s a great Eggbaconchipsandbeans: the chips are wonderfully crunchy (something that only very few cafes seem to manage), have a lovely golden brown colour and are fighting a losing territorial battle against the encroaching (and slightly spicy) beans, barely separated by the valiant and crunchy bacon and the immensely circular egg.

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The condiments were all present and accounted for. The whole place radiated tradition and a serious attitude to food. My coffee was exemplary and after leaving the place I was warm, full and happy. Again.

Top Marks.

Smithfield Cafe

23 West Smithfield,

London, EC1A 9HY

Blogging Burns

So last night I experienced my first Burns’ Supper. And not before time: this year we are celebrating the great man’s 250th birthday. The Aberdeen branch of one of the professional associations I belong to set up a swish shningdig at a posh hotel and hundreds of professionals and their (I am sure just as professional) partners put on their kilts and dresses and prepared themself for a night of eating, drinking, chatting, quaffing and poetry. What I of course didn’t know is that there is a certain procedure involved (I am too lazy to reproduce the whole shebang, wikipedia has a good summary) and that each Burns Supper follows a presumably century old template.

I was pretty much the only bloke without a kilt and the elaborate additional utensils that you have to wear on a night like that (I have never been in a room with so many men wearing knifes. I presume that’s what it’s like in a pub in Brixton ot Hackney) but at least I had pockets I could put things in.

After an excellent dinner of broth, haggis, cranachan and tablets there was much ceilidh dancing, and I continue to be amazed how all these laddies and lassies all know these elaborate dance routines by heart. Turns out they learn them at primary school. And I always thought it’s genetic.

If there’s a burns night around where you live, I would encourage you to attend. It’s good fun, the whole pageantry aspect is hilarious, there’s men in skirts and pretty good food.

Let’s finish this with my favourite little (alas rather sad) poem by the bard:

Wee, sleekit, cowrin, tim’rous beastie,
O, what a panic’s in thy breastie!
Thou need na start awa sae hasty
Wi bickering brattle!
I wad be laith to rin an’ chase thee,
Wi’ murdering pattle.

I’m truly sorry man’s dominion
Has broken Nature’s social union,
An’ justifies that ill opinion
Which makes thee startle
At me, thy poor, earth born companion
An’ fellow mortal!

I doubt na, whyles, but thou may thieve;
What then? poor beastie, thou maun live!
A daimen icker in a thrave
‘S a sma’ request;
I’ll get a blessin wi’ the lave,
An’ never miss’t.

Thy wee-bit housie, too, in ruin!
It’s silly wa’s the win’s are strewin!
An’ naething, now, to big a new ane,
O’ foggage green!
An’ bleak December’s win’s ensuin,
Baith snell an’ keen!

Thou saw the fields laid bare an’ waste,
An’ weary winter comin fast,
An’ cozie here, beneath the blast,
Thou thought to dwell,
Till crash! the cruel coulter past
Out thro’ thy cell.

That wee bit heap o’ leaves an’ stibble,
Has cost thee monie a weary nibble!
Now thou’s turned out, for a’ thy trouble,
But house or hald,
To thole the winter’s sleety dribble,
An’ cranreuch cauld.

But Mousie, thou art no thy lane,
In proving foresight may be vain:
The best laid schemes o’ mice an’ men
Gang aft agley,
An’ lea’e us nought but grief an’ pain,
For promis’d joy!

Still thou are blest, compared wi’ me!
The present only toucheth thee:
But och! I backward cast my e’e,
On prospects drear!
An’ forward, tho’ I canna see,
I guess an’ fear!

Sláinte!